DAA Residential
Whats in Wapping

Website Update & Suggestions

Website Update & Suggestions

[updated 30 September]

Very grateful for your suggestions and we’ve made changes since the site was launched on 1 June 2010, so with your help we’ll continue to improve What’s in Wapping.

Sign up for the Wapping Newsletter for regular Wapping updates:

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Write for the Site?

If you’re interested in writing for the website please Contact Us as we’re hoping to publish reviews of Wapping’s favourite restaurants, cafes and pubs this year, giving the local view. You’ll always get credited for writing (or have a pen name!) and we’ll put a link to your blog, personal or business website too which lots of people will see, not just residents!

Plans for the Wapping Website

We’ve got some technical stuff to finish in October, so please bear with us but after that we’ll be integrating a discussion forum to cope with all the comments, as people have so much to say! This will help with other suggestions like helping you find sports partners, arranging social drink, events and freecycling unwanted items.

We’re adding events to the Facebook Events page as a temporary solution and you don’t need to be signed up to Facebook to view the events, but know many people aren’t happy using Facebook in any shape or form. So later this year we’re hoping to bring an events calendar onto the site.


Please keep the suggestions coming and we’ll summarise them later this year with an online survey where you can vote for what you want and we’ll take it from there.

Thank You!

Contributions from Wapping residents and visitors are what’s made the site such a success so please keep sending them in and we’ll do our best to keep up.  And please help to tell fellow neighbours and residents about the site as whilst Wapping’s not that big there’s no reason it can’t have a decent website!

Please feel free to post suggestions and comments here, contact us directly or on Twitter @WappingLondon.

Kind regards and thanks for your support.


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  • Vickie

    Let’s see some of your photos John …there’s a Wapping group on Flickr
    And by the way did you know there are loads of squirrels in Wapping that like having their photos taken :)

  • http://www.paulbrockphotography.co.uk Brock

    Canon and Nikon are the big two by a long long way. That means more accessories, more lenses, and more second-hand kit available if you want to save a few quid.

    The difference between the two,as far as I’m concerned, is personal preference.

  • John

    Get a life Neil, I’m Scottish remember, when have you ever heard of any Jock spending thousands on a camera when cans of lager are a hell of a lot cheaper.
    As for worrying about being called a paedophile, not a patch on what the witch calls me if I’m 10 minutes late home from the pub.
    Just want to spend a few hundred on a decent camera and then buy a couple of lens. Not looking to be a photo journalist although have covered the cost of previous cameras with photos used by the papers, mind you days of sobriety and eyes of sharp focus are not what I am aspiring to.
    Cannon Sony Nikkon etc, is there a certain one that will suit an entry level but give enough scope to progress in photography.
    Brock just pondering your last comment about thinking your a terrorist, why disappoint them, I would love a camera with continuous shooting but one that would shoot the wife would be priceless.

  • http://www.paulbrockphotography.co.uk Brock

    par for the course, if they don’t think you’re a pedophile they think you’re a terrorist….

  • neil

    Not shot any football myself, can’t stand it, but I think a pros kit usually consists of a fast 70-200 and then either a 300 or 400 fast prime – so that’s 5-8 grand without the cameras! Then at a big match you’ll sometimes see unmanned cameras on tripods behind the goal with wide-ish lenses that the snapper operates by remote control.

    Other essential kit includes waterproofing (both for the tog and the kit) same with any outdoor passtime in the UK, and a decent monopod. Working shooters also need laptop and wireless to get the photos in front of the picture editor ASAP 2nd place is usually too late.

    Obviously nobody starts out with all that kit (bar the rich and stoopid) a half-decent SLR and a fast 70-200 would be best

    Don’t shoot any school-age matches – you’ll be branded a filthy pervert and lynched by paranoid Daily Mail reading parents on your first day.


  • Brock

    Main thing for football shots would be getting a telephoto (large zoom) lens. Most SLRs should be quick enough out of the box (as long as it’s daylight and not raining) but to get close enough to the action you’ll probably need a separate lens. The zoom is measured in mm, and you’d want a lens that goes to at least 200mm, preferably 300mm.

    Not sure without seeing the camera what the controls you mention do. AF normally stands for auto-focus, but it sounds like it’s adjusting the shutter speed – 1/1000 (of a second) rather than i/1000 perhaps?

    Possibly it’s the exposure compensation (normally marked as Ev+-), which tells the camera to add more or less light to its measure of how much to let in. If you have options for P/A/S/M that refers to the different modes which give you more creative control – program, aperture priority, shutter priority and manual. Good to get a handle on these as they are the same modes you’d use on pretty much any SLR.

  • john

    I can change the af up on pasm whatever that means and the thing next to it goes up to i/1000 then theres a number which goes + or – does any of that help me take night pictures or should I leave it on the night picture setting.

    Getting quite excited about all this now. Still intending to buy an SLR and would be interested in anything to avoid or look for. I would like one that could take action photos like football and getting a picture of the ball on the move, any ideas on that. Continuous shooting, See there’s me even getting technical now, David Bailey eat your heart out.

  • Vickie

    Nice picture John :)
    And your request for a forum is noted …it’s in progress and the first version should be ready by the end of the month, but you’re going to have to be patient – there’s quite a lot involved in making sure it works with the rest of the site!

  • Brock

    John the car trails are done in camera, a consequence of the long shutter speed required.

    Avoiding them can be harder than creating them if you have the shutter open for a second or more.

    As for the settings, one useful thing to know is that the camera saves all the settings you used in each photograph, so I can see that the photo you posted used the following settings:

    Aperture:f 2.8
    Exposure time: 1/2 sec
    ISO 64

    I’d guess that your camera, like most compacts, doesn’t allow direct control over the aperture and shutter speed, but will allow you to change the ISO. If you double the ISO, then you only need half the shutter speed, all things being even. So an ISO 256 (more likely set as either ISO 200 or ISO 400) would only need an exposure time of 1/8 second to give an equivalent shot.

    Unfortunately increasing the ISO will introduce ‘noise’ into the image, a bit like static on TVs when they’re not tuned properly. For the lower ISOs this probably isn’t noticed but the two or three highest settings on your camera it’ll probably make a big difference to the quality of the image…..all about tradeoffs.

  • John

    I finally done it, got a decent night picture, there will be no stopping me now. So now I’m wondering what af and all the numbers mean and should I try to use that and the iso thing or sim ply use the night mode.

    3 grand for a camera, well maybes I’ll start a teensey bit cheaper than that.


  • http://www.baynes.co.uk Mark Baynes

    Well I just think you can’t be too careful. I personally prefer the Find-A-Cam device. This is a very small light which plugs into the hot-shoe of most cameras.

    Originally developed for the US Emergency Services to keep track of expensive equipment such as thermal imaging cameras in hazardous environments this little box of tricks does nothing while there is a person within 10 feet of the camera, but if it stops sensing a person within that range it starts to flash a steady yellow light.

    The more advanced versions (which are quite costly) can also be activated by clapping your hands, much the same as those gadgets for when you lose your keys.

    Sounds a little over the top, but when a decent pro DSLR costs upwards of £3k then a worthwhile investment.

  • John

    I haven’t lost one yet Mark but I’ve a 100% success rate in breaking them, maybe you and Brock have a few slr ones that you would like tested for durability, in that case as the song goes ‘I’m your man!’

  • http://www.baynes.co.uk Mark Baynes


    Before you rush out and buy another more expensive camera I think you might consider one potential and often overlooked hazard of night photography. As it will be dark don’t you think there will be an increased risk of you losing that camera too?



  • john

    Thank you all for your input on this topic. I never use the flash, learned that much years ago but still not mastered the night pictures. I must say Paulie that I have been wrapped round lampposts on many occasions but the pictures I take still look as though they have been literally blown up.The gorillapod sounds a very good investment, could be my next ebay purchase. I need to try this lark and tonight I’m going to take the tripod out and see if I can get a couple of decent pictures.I do have to confess cameras are not my vocation in life, they seem to dislike me for some reason, so far this year, a samsung, an agfa and an olympus have resigned and refused to work for me any more, in fact the Agfa just takes the mick, it will work but you can’t see anything you are trying to take a picture of. Just to rub it in, I took a camera card from the olympus into ASDA this morning to see if anything was on it, it’s dead, never to show a bit of life again. I’m not saying I break a lot of cameras but my daughter won’t even let me touch her camera on the pain of death by a hammer over the head in my sleep.. What the hell is wrong with these cameras,they are supposed to be pocket cameras, they don’t say the camera must have a pocket all to itself and have a big quilt wrapped round it.
    I have taken loads of pictures of Tower Hamlets and other parts of London from the top of buildings and been quite lucky that it’s all been daytime but I would love to be able to get similar night pictures that would look even better.
    Brock the moving cars, are they done with photoshop or does the picture come out like that. I do have a picture in central London which wasn’t too bad, best bloody night picture I have. Will need to sort out a site that gives access to them. I can edit pictures to make the background blurred and just wondered if this was the case here.
    Then again if that Vicky one would get off her bum and get this board running right we could bang all the pictures up here seeing we live in London. Are you listening Missus, get off that vino and get working on this.
    Right next question, what camera slr would you recommend, I want one that will take multi shots at once and what do all these lens sizes mean, 18-55mm and ones that go to like 40 or something to 200. I want to get a decent one but would like to know the ins and outs in simple terms. Got slr for dummies but this dummy can’t remember where he put it, Only about 3000 discs sitting here so it can’t be far away.

  • Paulie-K

    John, if you have an existing camera, contemplate getting a gorillapod, which is a small ‘tripod’ that can wrap round lampposts, railings etc and can slip in a pocket- I have one that I keep in my camera bag all the time rather than lug a tripod about (but unlike Brock and Mark I’m an amateur- so perhaps don’t take advice from an accountant!).

    Also, if your camera has it, use the self-timer (often a stylized picture of a clock) to put a delay between pressing the button and taking the picture (if using a tripod) as it will remove the initial movement when pressing the shutter button.